This was a super quick spur-of-the-moment wreath. Dare I say cheap and easy? I frequently check out thrift stores for paintable pieces but with no luck in that department yesterday, I wandered through the store "just to see" what was out there. Famous last words. I might as well just pull out my debit card before I go in. My local thrift store has a section with vintage Christmas décor all bundled up and sorted by color so I couldn't help myself. It's kind of fun looking through the bags too when you get home. You never know what you'll find in there.
I prefer to use recycled wreaths when possible and I usually go for Spring, Fall, or Summer wreaths as opposed to the Christmas garland wreaths. Overall I usually like the results better and find they tend to look more expensive for whatever reason. Just a preference. Anything but Christmas base wreaths for me. I may change my mind if I find the right one but not so far.
So I picked up too much as usual but here's my haul.
1 x Fall Wreath
2 X Lot Bags of Vintage Christmas
1 Partial Roll of Ribbon
Just $21.00 including tax
Gone are the $10 days for my wreaths but $21 is still pretty good considering I will have lots left over to do a few more things and I am recycling at the same time. Most of the store-bought wreaths around here start around $45 and the ones I like are usually over $60. I love doing it this way because the price allows that I can donate the wreath after the Holidays. Which is a bonus because don't have to store anything and it doesn't get crushed by the next year. Also, I have an excuse to go thrifting next year again.
So It was super quick. I only used a glue gun and scissors for this one. It's not going outside so I didn't take the time to wire in all the ornaments. Just glue and go.
I just opened everything up. Tied a bow with the ribbon I purchased. Tied it in place and secured it with a bit of hot glue. I had hoped for a beige or gold ribbon but "thrifters can't be choosers". It was still ok though for $2.50
Next, I lay down the wreath on a plastic tub lid to save my table and glued away. Just picking out the ornaments that seemed to go with it. I loved the long-shaped ones and the apples.
Voila! Done. It took an hour to finish while I pretended to watch a Movie with my husband. Definitely more satisfying to finish something instead of watching TV.
Hope you enjoyed Cheers!
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There is never enough room for jewelry, right? Well that's what I was thinking when I updated an old 4 legged jewelry armoire. I was so happy to find this old French lingerie chest and end tables. I have been looking for some time but got lucky finding this set. I was looking for a tall piece I could line with organizing trays to hold jewelry, sunglasses, scarfs and all those odds and ends.
This chest was perfect! So I got started taking off all the hardware. The handles were really nice but looked dated in the gold and wouldn't go with my cooler color choices so I set them aside to work on that later. I was going to use some paint on them but my husband offered to spray paint them a glossy black so I took him up on the offer. It's always great to get a bit of help to finish up faster. I was super happy with them in shiny black as it turned out.
I also had an old jewelry chest on four legs that had two broken legs from moving it around so thought I would take the legs off and just set it on one of the end tables so it was more sturdy and made better use of the space having two extra large drawers below. I just had to match up the paint to make it look like it belonged together. So I took out all the drawers and handles and set them aside as well.
So to start with this one I was a bit worried that the red mahogany type finish would not hold the paint well so I gave it a coat of Slick Stick. I did this on all of the cabinets and then let them dry overnight.
Don't worry about how it looks at all while using slick stick as your not going to like it but it will give your paint a nice surface to cling too. It is recommended to do two coats of Slick Stick. However, I didn't feel I needed it on this one so I just made sure everything was covered and did a little touch up on any spots I missed.
Next I picked out French Linen from the Dixie Belle Collection. It is a beautiful color on its own but it also works very, very well as a base for steel magnolia as it is a really similar tone. The picture doesn't really do it justice but it is a nice tone.
Then comes the Moonshine Metallic coat in Steel Magnolia. I really love layering on the moonshine on top of a similar color base coat of chalk paint. It really adds depth and the paint goes so much further as well.
So after I painted all the pieces with the Steel Magnolia I set them out to dry overnight. I wanted to use a Prima Redesign Transfer on it so I am always waiting longer than normal for the paint to dry, just to be safe. The transfers have to be rubbed on the paint so I figure the dryer the better and so far it has worked for me. I recommend leaving the painted pieces at least on night before adding transfers. It would take so much longer to have to re-do everything.
I picked out a nice "Lovely Ledger" transfer from our Prima re-design collection and got started the next day. I pulled out all the dresser drawers and figured out my placement. Next I just cut the transfers to the right size. It is so easy as they have cut lines and a grid on them. Then drawer by drawer pulled off the backing on the transfer, place it right on the drawer carefully where I want it and then rub it using the wooden burnishing tool that comes with it. Then I just pull back slowly in case any of the transfer doesn't stick. If you find a bit doesn't come off, if you do it slowly you can drop it back in place and rub it again until it releases of the backing.
It goes quickly and this part is a lot of fun for me as it looks so detailed and takes very little time. Think I had them all done in an hour. Most of the time was planning the placement and cutting them to size.
Then to protect the transfer I apply a light coat of clear coat with a sponge to give it some added protection.
Next up was putting the handles all back on.
Once all the handles were on I gathered them together in better light for some photos. In this light you can see the colors much better. Steel Magnolia over French Linen gives a warm silver look if there is such a color.
I was able to find a whole bunch of jewelry organizing trays in the drawers too for added storage space. I am definitely going to look for more of these chests and try another one soon!
I hope you enjoyed,
Andrea Hinz
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I love thrift shopping now and again when opportunity arises. It gives me a chance to try out new things and not worry too much how they are going to turn out (just in case). Lately, I have seen some amazing globe transformations on Pinterest and new when I saw this one I had to give this a try. The map was worn down a bit but looked repairable, but the stand itself was really nice so thought I would give it a go.
This map I repaired with a bit of Gator Hide to re-stick it down where it was torn. Just in a couple of places. I just painted it on and let it dry for 15min. You could also use modge podge if you had some.
Then I pulled out some Van Dyke Glaze, Gator Hide and Glass Glitter. I thought the Van Dyke Glaze would give it an Old World look and blend well with the brown and yellow tones of the globe. It also will allow all the countries to show through as it's fairly transparent.
Here's a picture of the Globe half glazed. I used a small artist brush for this so I could drag it from top to bottom to leaves vertical lines. It was only about 1cm wide. I dragged the brush over already glazed areas so it looked old and weathered an uneven everywhere.
Once I was done I let it dry 30 min and then went back and touched up here and there where I wanted it darker.
Next I used a paper cup and poured in some Gater Hide and mixed it with a tablespoon of our European Glass Glitter in Burnished Copper.
Next I quickly painted on the mix on the continents of the world using the same small 1 cm brush. This really sparkles but does not show as well in the pictures as in person. The sparkles added interest and I liked you can still read the names of the countries through the sparkles.
Then I decided to use my Cricut Maker to make it a bit more interesting. I've seen globes that said Joy to the World, The Whole World in his Hands...a whole bunch of sayings but I wanted it to work all year not just for the holidays so I designed up Adventure Awaits. Printed it off in Matte Black and applied it. I was happy with the results as it tied in well with the Iron Stand. I have added a FREE download of this design in jpeg for your use if your interested. You will find it at www.diysupplies.ca under the Download Color Charts & Info Heading.
Hope you enjoyed!
Andrea Hinz
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He had eye hooks on each side of the bone that were rusty so I started by pulling them out. I think he is concrete or some type of heavy resin. I'm not totally sure but was likely intended for an outdoor garden decoration.
First he need a good clean. There was lots of texture to him so I just rubbed him down with soap and water and let dry. My thought was to make him look like a copper statue that had been weathered outdoors so I chose his base color "pine cone" from Dixie Belle.
Using a synthetic brush I gave him a rough coat of paint. I like to use a lazy Susan tray when painting little items as it spins, so I can work quickly without having to pick up the piece very much. I still somehow get paint all over my self but it does help quite a bit.
The first coat came out great. I like to do a base coat while using patina paints because that way if I miss anything you will never know. If you leave it white it might show through.
Next he was left to dry 30 min. Once he was dry I pulled out my Copper Patina Paint and did a full coat of copper on top of the base coat. This is just preference as I wanted him to look like a copper statue. If you were doing something similar you could also just paint a bit of copper here and there for a more patched look if you wanted. This looks great with blended colors as well. I was just trying to keep this one simple.
After a coat of paint he looked great already! I almost changed my mind and just left him like this but I wanted to use him outside and have him look like he had been weathered so I carried on.
This copper paint is really nice and has great coverage so I will be sure find something else to use the left over paint on.
So once I had on the one base coat of chalk paint in "pine cone" and 1 coat of copper (which had dried for 30 min) on him I was ready to use the patina spray to start the aging reaction. NOTE your paint must be wet for reaction.
You can use the spray bottle it comes in but I find it a bit to hard to control and a bit to strong of a stream when it comes out so I transfer the spray into a continuous fine mist bottle and use the mister instead. It is much easier to use and the fine mist spreads nicely so the coverage is great.
Once you are ready for the reaction you need to paint on one more coat of copper where you want the reaction to take place. The paint must be wet to work. I do one coat and let it dry and do the next coat just as I am ready to spray. I wanted him to look like he changed from rain so I ended up painting him all over in another coat of copper. You need the copper paint to be wet to get a reaction so you need to work fast.
So just a reminder get your spray patina ready, paint your piece all over again or in the spots you want to react and spray the spots with your patina spray. I stood above him and sprayed his head, paws and legs and back where I thought rain would hit him if he was out in a garden. This is completely up to you to spray all over, just in spots, or a lot or very little. Whatever you end up doing you can paint over and respray if you want more or less of the reaction.
You can see a bit of a reaction right away... notice the top of his head and ears.
Then you will see more reaction like in this photo on his paws and face. This takes time to develop. So he is set aside overnight or at least 24 hours to make sure the reaction is done.
When I checked on him the next day the reaction was done and this was the final effect. I loved it! But if for any reason I wanted to change him a bit I could have gone back and painted a bit more copper here and there. Or painted copper again and sprayed again. You can experiment and do it again if you want too until you get what you like.
I top coated him with gator hide which at first took away the aged look but when he dried it all came back. If I was going to use him inside only, I would not have even bothered with a top coat as it changes the look a bit but I wanted to put him outside again on a porch so he needed a top coat.
This was a super fun project and I can't wait to try it again!
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You just need a jar of chalk paste in the color of your choice, a silk screen stencil and some silicone spreaders. The jewelry box I was interested in fixing up was glossy black and simple so I went with Chalky White but there are so many colors to choose from.
So after picking out my silk screen stencil I pulled out the old box and gave it a super good clean with baby wipes. As you can see it needed a good clean. I didn't want to sand it at all because it was in good shape and I liked the glossy finish. Baby wipes are very gentle and worked perfectly.
Next I laid out the stencil in the right place on my box. Our Prima silk screen stencils are sticky on the back to help prevent leaks but can be used again and again if washed right away.
Next I used painters tape around the edge to protect the surface from the chalk paste and any accidental spill over.
Then with the silicone spreader I lined up some chalk paste on the left side of the stencil so I could drag it over (flood it) the silk screen.
Then I just dragged the chalk paste over the stencil with the spreader and made sure I got the entire stencil so that no detail was missed. The details you can get with these silk screen stencils are awesome.
Then using the scraper I just scraped up the excess chalk paste and scraped it back in the jar. It takes so little paste it's hard to believe. I have enough to do a hundred more in one jar.
Then the fun part. I pulled back the stencil very slowly being careful not to stretch it out of shape. I found that on an angle worked best for this one.
So after pulling it off I let it dry overnight just to be safe. I washed the stencil and scraper off right away with warm water so I can use it again.
I wanted to protect the design and wanted to match the original finish on the box so I didn't have to redo the rest of the box. I used 2 coats of Dixie Belle Clear Coat Gloss with a sponge. With the clear coat gloss the stencil was protected and the finish matched perfectly to the rest of the box. It looks like it was always there. So happy with this silk screen stencil and how easy it is to use chalk paste! Can't wait to try this again!
Hope you enjoyed!
Andrea Hinz
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First a quick clean with Colorantic Cleaner and Varnish Remover. Using this cleaner is very easy as you spray it on. Just a spray of the cleaner on the frame and let it sit a bit then a wipe clean with a soft cloth until nothing is coming off the frame onto the cloth. I also taped up the mirror using painters tape so I wouldn't get any cleaner or paint on the mirror making the clean up very fast.
I then picked out Colorantic's "Cotton Ball" color and gave it two coats. I added a tiny little bit of "Colorantic's Clothesline" for a touch of blue like in the glass around the mirror.
I let the paint dry 30 minutes and took out Colorantic's Grey Storm Wax to age it and protect it at the same time. Using a wax brush I brushed it in the crevices on the frame and here and there on the outer rim and on the rest of the frame. I let it sit for about 10 min and then wiped back the wax I didn't want and left darker areas where I wanted it. Wax is great to work with because you can always take back what you don't want or add more easily.
That's it! It was so quick any easy and I now like the look as you notice the stain glass around the mirror more and it looks aged but lighter and fresher!
This was a super fun project for me! I have been looking for a few items that would suit a Patina Paint makeover and found these two bookends. The Dixie Belle Patina Paints we carry add age and color to a piece to make it look like it was originally copper, iron or bronze and was out in the weather for years. I have been really loving the bronze color lately so decided on a bronze with a green patina finish for these horse head bookends.
The really interesting thing about these paints is you get to watch them change right before your eyes into what looks like an old aged piece. For this project I thought I would use these horse head bookends because I could picture them in a heavy metal. They were also two different colors so this would match them up. I think they are originally blue mountain pottery pieces and looked like they would suit an old aged copper look using the patina paints. So I got started.
The first thing I always do is a clean using Dixie Belle White Lightening cleaner. I spray it on then wipe it down until the cloth is clean. This de-greases the piece and preps the surface for some paint.
Next few base coats of Dixie Belle Pine Cone to cover the piece from top to bottom. I like to do this so if I miss some copper paint later it still works and looks finished with no original paints coming through.
It hardly takes any paint at all. I used a 8oz Pine Cone and will be able to do a few more projects with it again soon as there was tons of paint left over.
I don't worry as the first coat always looks rough. Just let it dry for at least 30 minutes and then do a second coat and it looks so much better.
After the second coat let it dry again for at least 30 minutes.
Then it's time to apply your Patina Paint. I picked out copper and did a full coat of Copper Patina Paint over both the bookends. The copper color is so beautiful! I it even looks great before the patina.
Next I let it dry 30 minutes. Then a quick coat of copper again and while it is wet I spray it with the Green Patina Spray over the wet paint areas using gloves and opening a window. I then let it sit and the reaction takes place.
I then touch up spots I like or don't like with the copper paint and a sponge. This is all personal choice as you can apply as much or as little of the spray as you want. Overnight it drys and reacts a bit more. I find the spray bottle it comes in is a bit strong of a spray so I transfer the patina green spray into a mister bottle for this purpose. Then it goes on more like a mist with less runs.
Here's my finished bookends....
I was super happy how they turned out. They look like aged copper and have a nice warm tone to them. I can't wait to do this again.
Hope you enjoyed!
Andrea Hinz
]]>Well this was a different kind of project than my usual furniture redo's. I picked up this beginner guitar with intentions of making a lamp out of it by drilling designs though it or adding stained glass to it. I discovered that it was still in playable condition so I couldn't talk myself into cutting it up and kept leaving it for another day.
Eventually I realized I would never bring myself to cut it up, so thought it would be fun to try adding a transfer to it. So I took off the strings and cleaned up the surface and taped everything up to give it a makeover instead.
Then I used a Prima rub on transfer I had hanging around and positioned the deer and trees to make up a little scene. Rubbed off the transfers when I had them in the right spots and it worked perfectly!
To seal it I used Gator Hide with a sponge and applied 3 coats as it will hopefully get used again and I wanted to make the design durable.
So after it dried it was restrung and ready to go. It was nice to personalize it and make it a one of a kind. Can't wait to try another...maybe with colored epoxy next time.
Hope you enjoyed!
Andrea Hinz
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First I purchased some flower stems that I thought all went well together. The next step is to cut them all apart. Then once they were all cut apart with wire cutters I gather them in my hand and add the different types of flowers together in a bunch until I like the arrangement. Once I have the shape and arrangement to my liking I wire it all together with one floral wire. You could also tie it up with string.
Then I used some rope to cover the area wired up and to wrapped it around the stems several times and tied off. Sometimes I use ribbon but I like the rope and had some handy.
I then cut the stems so they will sit in my vase nicely. I do this way before I get to the resin part.
When I have a few arrangements ready I mix up my Art Resin and stir for 3 min. I take all the flower bunches out of the vases and give the vases a good clean.
Then pour a couple of ounces in the bottom of the vase. Just enough to cover the stems a bit looks great. You can use on its own to look like clear water or pour over stones,glass, shells or just about anything you can think of in the bottom of the vase.
Then insert your flower bunch back in the vase into the wet Art Resin. Make sure it is exactly where you want it and prop it up on the outside to make sure it stays in place while drying. Then it needs to sit untouched to harden for 24hrs and it's done.
I really enjoyed making these and like how each and everyone turned out differently. They even look nice with clear glass and just a few flowers in it. The possibilities are endless. I will be doing this again soon.
Hope you enjoyed,
Andrea Hinz
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This was a fun project! This dresser was the perfect size to use a printed design I had of a bike. First I used the iron on method to decoupage on the bike design. I should have taken more photo's during this stage but was working away and before I knew it the design was applied. The steps taken using the iron on method are listed below and I will do another project soon with this method to show you with photos or on video soon. This design I found on tissue paper.
The dresser was nice and clean when I received it but I sprayed it all over with White Lightening our degreaser from Dixie Belle anyway. This cleans and degreases the surface for the best results with chalk paints. It comes in an 8 oz jar but you only need two tablespoons for a spray bottle full so it lasts forever. We will be adding small bags to our website so customers can try it if they only have one or two projects to do in the near future.
After taking off the hardware I painted the drawers and let them dry for 30 minutes. A find a light base like Dixie Belle Cotton or Fluff is a nice base under a print as it keeps the details nice and bright.
Then I coated the drawers with Gator Hide waited 30 minutes and applied a second coat of Gator Hide to the drawers again. It's worth it to do the second coat because if you miss even a tiny spot the first time you might have problems with your printed medium not sticking.
Next I lay out the printed tissue with the bike exactly where I wanted it and cut it in three sections so I could work one drawer at a time. Then when the print is laid down on the drawer where it should be I cover it with parchment paper and carefully iron the parchment paper on top of the print to adhere it to the drawer. This heats up the Gator Hide and seals in the print with little to no bubbles. I love this method!
Then let it cool. Next another layer of Gator Hide to protect it. Sometimes it will dry with a few bubbles but don't worry if this happens. Later after it is dry just put on more parchment paper and iron quickly and it will come right out.
Then it was time to paint..... Using the color Muscadine Wine I started on the base....
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Then Vintage Duck Egg in the centre and then brought up the Muscadine Wine again along the top and ran it down the front all the way round.
Once again I worked away and missed out on the pictures ..
The colors were then blended with water using a mister bottle and a brush and then got out my sander and distressed it a bunch. Once that was done I applied Black Best Dang Wax in Black to grunge it out a bit more in all the creases. The top surface is painted Caviar and the bottom rail is Caviar too.
The top was then sealed in Gator Hide and the body of the dresser sealed in Satin Clear Coat.
Here's a few pictures of it before it left (or rode away). The colors and blending show up better in these photo's I think.
It was super fun to do. The possibilities are endless when you ad decoupage to a piece.
Hope you enjoyed.
Andrea Hinz
]]>So after a few weeks of thinking about what I wanted to do with it (and tripping over it in my garage) it came to me... a perfect fit for an outdoor fire table. Also a little bonus was if I didn't like it when I was done I could burn it. So I finally got started.
First I used an electric sander to clean it up a bit. I only sanded the top surface so it was fairly smooth and so that no nails were sticking up. Then I talked my husband into cutting a hole in the middle so I could put in a fire top bowl eventually.
Next was the best part. Using a small hand torch I burned it all over to give it more light and dark spots all over. It is a really great way to bring out the grain and you can do as much or as little as you would like. A small hand held torch gives you a lot of control.
Next I stained the edges of the table with No Pain Gel Stain in Black as well as the base. I had to wait 3 days for the Stain to totally dry as I wanted to seal it with Gator Hide. No Pain Gel Stain is oil based and Gator Hide is water based so it is recommended to let you stain dry for a minimum of 3 days so you will not have any problems. I loved the overall look after it was just stained and sealed.
I popped in my fire bowl and it was was done! I like it best at night when the fire is going. During the day I thought it still needed something so I added some color by using the base to hold my plant pots.
I added some flower pots around the base for some color during the day.
Hope you enjoyed,
Andrea Hinz
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Now that I don't use pennies anymore I thought I would grab out a bag I had collected from sometime ago. Lately I have been seeing a lot more copper decor items out there and I'm starting to really like them so pennies seemed like a nice color choice on the black tray. The copper on the coins was very dull,dark and brown so I had so first thing I needed to do was clean the pennies.
I found a super quick way on the internet to clean them with just vinegar and salt. I just mixed 1 cup vinegar with a few tablespoons of salt. Dropped the pennies in and mixed them around a bit and they were shiny and clean within 30 sec. I tried leaving a few in longer to see if they would look any better but I think they actually got darker so 30 seconds seemed to work the best.
After the pennies were cleaned and dried I pulled out my tray. I started lining them up maple leaf side up along the edges but after a little while it became clear that it was better to work from the center out to make them look centered on the tray. I put in one American penny just for conversation sake.
The tray surface was 11 inch by 17 inch so I used one small 8oz kit of Art Resin. Art Resin is safe for food contact (just in case you loose a fry). I personally would not place food directly on any type resin but it is safe if it comes in contact with food by accident. I love the crystal clear look of the Art Resin and that it comes in small kits for just this type of small project so you have no waste.
So I got out my mixing cup poured in the whole 4oz bottle of resin then the 4oz bottle of hardener into the cup and stirred. You need to stir it together for 3 minutes. I set a google timer to make sure. Once mixed I let it stand for a couple of minutes. Then poured directly on my tray. I made sure before pouring the tray was level using a level. This is important so your resin is even when it dries. Using a silicone scraper I made sure all the resin was spread evenly over the tray.
Then I just needed to watch for bubbles and remove them. While doing this you can blow on the bubbles as they come up and they will pop. I prefer to use a hand torch as I think it's a bit faster and more fun to use. Using the torch I quickly popped the bubbles by moving the flame just above the resin surface quickly in a back and forth motion. You will see all the bubbles pop instantly with this method.
I have learned the hard way you need to check it again in 30 minutes later just in case any new bubbles popped up. If you have more bubbles in the resin blow on them or re-torch them again to pop them. Check on it as often as you want for the first hour or so. I checked once on this tray 30 minutes later and re-torched just in case.
Then I covered the tray with a piece of cardboard on top to keep out dust and left it for a full 24 hours to cure.
I super love the way it turned out! I can't wait to try another one! But first I need to serve up some drinks! Hope you enjoyed.
Andrea Hinz
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This is the inexpensive pine plank I started with and a picture of it half stained with Vodoo Gel Stain in "Up in Smoke" to show you the difference the stain makes. I used a sponge to apply the gel stain to the entire board.
Next I darkened only the edges with extra Vodoo Gel Stain to give it a fake bark look from the side view.
It was very quick to apply and I had a nice grain showing through in no time...
Using my Cricut cutter I prepared my letters to spell welcome and cut out several sizes of leafs on a watercolor card-stock so they all looked a bit different. I then printed out a colorful pup on my regular printer on copy paper.
When the board was dry I lay out the design and decoupaged it all with a light coat of Gator Hide. 30 minutes later I gave it one more overall coat of Gator Hide.
The letters are vinyl and the rest is paper. I'm not sure I will use that font again as I don't really like the letter c but overall I was really happy with the card-stock leaf colors and the added decoupage.
The finished result...
Bright and spring like I think...
Hope you enjoyed!
Andrea
]]>This digital slideshow made with Smilebox |
Thanks for watching!
Here's another link to the video...
If you have any problem viewing it please send me your email address and I will send it direct to you.
Thank you and stay safe,
Andrea
]]>Anyway it was a honey, orange colored finish that I needed to change to match my decor and to remove all of the previous dents and marks. It needed a good sanding to remove the finish on the table top and on the center beam that holds it together as I planed to stain it too. Stain was my first choice as I definitively wanted to show the grain. It was beautiful under the finish with all of it's knots and noticeable grain. I didn't feel the need to stain the legs as I like a little bit of contrast with solid chalk mineral paint to show off the top as well as reduce the amount of labor.
I forgot to take a full before picture but you can see the original color still on the legs of the table below. It was much more orange looking in person than in the picture.
So this is the beautiful table top after sanding...Nice surprise.
It was super solid and had nice tight seems and lovely knots and grain so I new that I wanted to see the wood grain through the finish. It was way too nice to paint over for me.
I wanted to start very light so I mixed half and half of Weathered Gray and Expresso No Pain Gel Stain as seen below. It wasn't quite what I wanted so I added one more partial streaky coat of dark Expresso No Pain Gel Stain and got the look I was going for. I like to start with the lightest color first because I can always go darker. If I started dark I can't lighten and would have to re-sand which I don't ever want to do if I don't have too.
After darkening it up with the Expresso No Pain Gel Stain I moved onto the legs.
I used two simple coats of Dixie Belle Caviar paint on the legs and left to dry. I waited 3 days before sealing table top to allow for the gel stain to dry properly as it is oil based. Then after the 3 day waiting time I used Gator Hide with a sponge for the table top sealer. It was a fun project and we enjoy using it often! Now I just need new chairs that match.
Hope you enjoyed!
Andrea
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Andrea
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I find that Dixie Belle Waxes are fun and easy to use on any project. They come in various colors and can be applied to your painted project after you paint dries. You typically leave the wax on anywhere from 15 minutes to overnight and then buff your project and take off the excess. It looks great, creates depth and adds a more protective wax surface to finish to your work.
Here's a short 30 sec. Dixie Belle Video demonstrating how to use the wax and showing off a finished result. The combinations of your base color and then your wax will change the outcome of your project. So be sure to try out different colors on you projects. They come in 10oz jars of Black, Brown, Grunge Gray, White & Clear and each jar goes a long,long way!
Click this link below to watch the short demo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=frLdrhITU2I
Hope this is helpful and gives you some ideas for your next project.
Andrea
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The base coat I used was drop cloth and after 2 coats I almost kept it like that, as it did look nice and modern all one color. But after all I decided to try coffee bean on the top though to add some more contrast and applied it with a dry brush technique to make it look grainy and it worked. Then I gave it a quick coat with a sponge of Gator Hide for protection from scratching or water marks.
I was very happy with the finished product. It looks lighter and more modern perfect for a small area.
Hope you enjoyed!
Andrea
]]>Applied the stain with the blue sponge, waited 15 minutes then applied my decals on the plank. Used one coat of Gator Hide to protect the plank from the weather and let dry overnight. I prefer using a sponge to apply the Gator Hide for a nice smooth finish.
Once again it was a quick fun project that you could adapt to almost any sports team or theme you liked.
We are taking custom orders for signs in our general store so if you are looking for a special one just let us know.
Thanks
Andrea
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Using sign boards like these....
I covered a table and took out some Dixie Belle Chalk Mineral Paint in Barn Red and Soft Pink. Honkey Tonk Red would have been nice too but I didn't want to open up too many reds.
I gave each board a light sand with a sanding sponge because they were a bit rough. Then got started with a coat of Barn Red...
Then after waiting 15 min I did some blending with soft pink and taped up a diamond pattern on one just to try something different.
After 15 min they were dry and ready to decorate. You could hand paint, use stickers, decoupage or your vinyl cutter to print out a design. I printed out some designs and applied to the signs.
I applied one coat of Gator Hide to each sign and they were done.
The Kissing Booth was my favorite!
Andrea Hinz
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You could use any of the Voodoo Gel Stains on your plank to achieve the look you want. They go a long way so pick a stain you will use again.
These are the types of planks I used. Starting with a plank and Voodoo gel stain it is a very quick project. Voodoo Gel Stain is water based making it very easy to use. I did a quick sand on the plank but it is a rustic look so it is not required. Then I applied a small amount of stain using a sponge brush until I covered the plank. I let it dry of 15 minutes. I wanted it darker on the edges and a bit darker overall so I did one more coat. I barely used any stain and still have 3/4 or more stain left in the bottle for my next project.
After a bit more stain was applied to darken it up a bit I waited 15 min. I then applied my vinyl letters and logos. Next I applied one quick coat of Gator Hide and let it dry overnight. You can also use Modge Podge but I wouldn't recommend it for the outdoors. The Gator Hide is water repellent so I prefer it for crafts that will be outside on a porch. Once again a very small amount was used.
This project was quick and fun. I loved using the Voodoo Gel Stain to show off the wood and it is so easy and quick to use.
Hope this was helpful and you get your welcome sign up soon!
Andrea
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Cheers,
Andrea Hinz
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